Remodeling FAQ in Vancouver, WA
Planning a remodel and want real answers before you start? This FAQ covers the most common questions we hear from homeowners about kitchen remodeling, bathroom remodeling, tile installation, and window replacement in Vancouver, WA and the Portland, OR area.
A realistic kitchen remodel budget usually falls in these ranges:
– Small refresh: $500–$5k (paint, lighting, hardware, minor updates)
– Mid-range remodel: $5k–$15k (cabinets, countertops, flooring, backsplash, better layout flow)
– Full remodel / high-end: $15k+ (layout changes, plumbing/electrical, custom finishes)
We help you pick the best upgrades for your budget and give a clear scope upfront—so there are no surprises.
Usually the cheapest time to remodel a kitchen is late fall through winter — especially November to February.
Why:
– It’s a slower season for many remodeling crews (fewer big projects start)
– Scheduling is easier, so you can sometimes get better pricing and faster start times
– Some materials/appliances may have holiday and New Year sales
– Most expensive/busiest tends to be spring and summer.
Common hidden kitchen renovation costs include:
– Electrical upgrades (old wiring, adding outlets, GFCI/AFCI requirements)
– Plumbing fixes (old shutoff valves, corroded pipes, leaks, moving the sink)
– Water damage / rot / mold behind cabinets, sink, or dishwasher
– Subfloor repairs after removing old flooring
– Wall repairs (drywall, texture matching, repainting after demo)
– Permits & inspections (if required for electrical/plumbing changes)
– Unexpected leveling issues (uneven floors/walls that affect cabinets and tile)
– Trash hauling & dump fees (demo debris adds up fast)
– Material “extras” (trim, fillers, end panels, delivery fees, missing parts)
– Change orders (when the plan changes after work starts)
We reduce surprises by checking for problem areas early, confirming scope in writing, and keeping you updated before any extra work is done.
Most of the time, the most expensive part of redoing a kitchen is the cabinetry (cabinets + installation). It can easily take the biggest share of the budget because it’s a lot of material, custom sizing, and detailed labor.
After cabinets, the next biggest costs are usually:
– Labor/trades (especially if plumbing/electrical changes are needed)
– Countertops (price depends heavily on material)
– Appliances (if you’re replacing a full set)
If you want, I can turn these into a clean FAQ block for your website (short Q/A format).
Yes — but it’s usually a refresh, not a full remodel.
With a $5,000 budget, you can often update things like:
painting cabinets or walls
new cabinet hardware
new faucet (sometimes sink)
lighting fixtures
small backsplash area
minor repairs and touch-ups
To stay near $5k, you typically keep the same layout and avoid major plumbing/electrical changes.
A reasonable bathroom remodel budget usually falls into these ranges:
Small refresh: $500–$7k (paint, fixtures, vanity swap, lighting, minor tile work)
Mid-range remodel: $7k–$20k (new vanity, tile, flooring, shower/tub upgrade, better ventilation)
Full remodel / high-end: $20k+ (layout changes, custom tile, glass, plumbing/electrical upgrades)
Biggest cost drivers are tile & waterproofing, plumbing changes, and labor. We keep it predictable by confirming scope early and offering options that fit your budget.
Most of the time, the shower/tub area is the most expensive part — especially if it includes tile, waterproofing, and plumbing work.
Other big cost drivers can be:
– Tile labor (detailed work takes time)
– Plumbing changes (moving drains/valves)
– Water damage repairs (rot/mold behind walls or under the floor)
– Custom glass (for walk-in showers)
We help control costs by checking for hidden issues early and recommending durable options that look great without overspending.
The 30% rule is a simple guideline:
Try not to spend more than ~30% of your home’s current value on renovations (especially if you’re thinking about resale).
Example:
If your home is worth $450,000, then 30% is $135,000 total renovation budget.
Why people use it:
– Helps prevent over-improving the house compared to your neighborhood
– Keeps the project more likely to hold value if you sell
Good contractors apply this rule smartly—we can help you prioritize upgrades that make the biggest difference while keeping the budget realistic.
Yes — ideally tile should finish flush (or very close) to the drywall so the transition looks clean and doesn’t create a sharp “lip.”
In real projects, it depends on what’s behind the tile:
– If tile is on cement board or waterproof board, the tile surface often ends up a bit proud of drywall (because backer board + thinset + tile adds thickness). That’s normal.
– The goal is a smooth transition, usually handled with:
– – Schluter/metal edge trim (cleanest option)
– – Bullnose tile (if available)
– – Feathering drywall compound to blend the edge when needed
For a backsplash, a small difference is fine; for shower surrounds, a trim profile is usually the best-looking and most durable solution.
Tile patterns that usually make a room look bigger:
– Large-format tiles (like 12×24 or bigger) — fewer grout lines = more open look
– Straight lay (grid) with minimal grout contrast — keeps the floor calm and continuous
– Running bond (brick) laid lengthwise — draws the eye in one direction and stretches the space
– Diagonal layout — makes the room feel wider because lines run corner-to-corner
– Chevron / herringbone (in a long plank look) — can visually “pull” the room longer, especially in hallways or narrow bathrooms
Bonus tip: choose a tile with a lighter tone and use a grout color close to the tile for the biggest “room expansion” effect.
Often, yes — especially if you’re noticing drafts, foggy glass, or high energy bills. At around 20 years old, many windows are past their best sealing and insulation performance.
It’s usually worth replacing if you have:
– Drafts/cold spots or rooms that won’t stay comfortable
– Condensation or fog between panes (failed seal)
– Hard-to-open/lock windows or water intrusion
– Visible rot around the frame/sill
– Noticeable noise from outside
Main benefits:
– Better comfort (less draft, more even temps)
– Improved energy efficiency (depends on your home and current windows)
– Stronger security and smoother operation
– Higher curb appeal and resale appeal
If the frames are solid and the problem is only minor, sometimes a repair or re-seal can make sense — but once seals fail or frames deteriorate, replacement is usually the smarter long-term move.
Usually, replacing just the glass is cheaper — if the frame is still in good shape.
Just the glass (IGU replacement) is cheaper when:
– the frame isn’t rotted or warped
– the window opens/closes fine
– the main issue is fog/condensation between panes or a cracked pane
Replacing the whole window can be the better value when:
– the frame or sill has rot/water damage
– the window is drafty because of poor frame seals
– it’s hard to operate or won’t lock properly
– you want a real upgrade in efficiency, noise reduction, or appearance
A quick rule: Foggy glass only → glass replacement.
Drafts/rot/bad operation → full window replacement.
Have a Project in Mind?
We’d be happy to help bring your idea to life.
Call us at: (253) 844-8188
Or fill out the form, and we’ll get back to you within 24 hours to schedule a quick consultation.